News: Rioja, a mighty ship in new winds
Year 16, No. 10
Highlights: Rioja 2026
If most people know anything about Spanish wine they’ll probably mention either Rioja, Tempranillo, or assume that they’re basically the same thing which isn’t completely wrong. While this may seem a limited viewpoint to those in the wine cognoscenti, it’s actually brilliant as it means that Rioja has such brand identity, they essentially ‘are’ Spain.
This doesn’t come without its pitfalls however as it makes Rioja a very large boat and such vessels can find it slow to change direction no matter how choppy the waves on the horizon clearly appear. This is why the most-recent Rioja Report has been so surprising.
There are wines with far less alcohol. More white wines. More experimentation in terms of style that are not the classic Rioja, but something else, which to call ‘Modern’ Rioja seems to sell it short. There have also been a great many changes at the leadership level as well, which is in turn driving more changes. All of this is looked at, in the Report.
Clearly, it’s needed given that the climate, market, and just about everything is changing while there are still 600 producers making wines in Rioja each year that need a home and someone to drink them. I do what I can, although I am but one man. I can only hope that what we’ve been seeing will get others to come back to Rioja who have perhaps stayed away for some time as it was ‘boring’. It’s definitely anything but these days.
What is wine but of course a Holy Trinity of blending just the right things? That was my recent proposition as I find the ‘enlightenment’ given to old, random field blends to often be overplayed. I’m of a mind that the best blends, are made in the wineries and with intention.
Sadly, there also continues to be a great deal of intention in the continuing war crimes by Russia in Ukraine. Recently, they’ve destroyed yet another wine warehouse (*) in the country as they work to break the Ukrainian spirit, which seems only to hold more resolve, the more the Russians try. There are links in that article by Sergei Panov if you are able to send much-needed aid in the continuing efforts to beat back the horrors of this Russian invasion, now in its fifth year.
Lastly, I’d like to draw your attention to ‘The List’ (*) which is collection of Wine Substacks that are both published regularly and have paid subscribers. I’m working to update this (*) which as usual has people telling me that it’s ‘incomplete’ when it’s just an effort to have a more-or-less current list of people using this platform to publish professionally in an age of dyingdead wine media.
Please have a look at the requisites and get in contact if you have any suggestions as the final list will be published round about September.
Drink well, be well.
-Miquel
(*) Free to read
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The Featured Report
Rioja Report
Large, expansive, varied and that’s just talking about the landscape. When it comes to the wines, there’s truly everything produced in Rioja these days and the accompanying Tasting Report of over 230 wines shows this ever so clearly.
And now this
Feel like aging your wine for 17 years before release? That’s the idea behind Buezo in the small DO Arlanza just to the north of Ribera del Duero.
While we’ve been talking about Rioja, it’s worth noting that their young wines have changed a great deal in recent years, especially with the Negu from Baigorri.
Always good for an update from a quality producer in Ribera del Duero, such as what we see from these wines of Viña Vilano.
And of course, what’s a rosé if not’s pinker than pink, although the Pla dels Àngels of Scala Dei is one of the finest examples of the pinky type.